Sawtill in 3 Hours (-ish)

I have too many saws. Let’s just get that out of the way. And if I’m honest I don’t even use some of them all that often. But these are the ones I’ve whittled my saw collection down to, and every time I do use them I remember why they made it into my permanent saws. My panel saws were all taking up floor space in a corner of the shop, while most of my backsaws were laid flat in the drawer under my tool chest. It wasn’t an ideal situation, and I needed a wall hanging sawtill.

Disston, Saw, Panel Saw

My ‘keeper’ panel saws. A couple Disston D-8s, a few more Disstons, a Spear & Jackson and a Warranted Superior. Yes, my shop needed to be cleaned.

Another thing I need to admit – I procrastinate when I reach a crucial or difficult part of a major project. In this case squaring up and cutting the dovetails in the ends of the coffee table boards….so the sawtill was a somewhat justifiable reason to delay that part. That said, I needed this project to be quick, so I kept track of my working time. The stock I used was some Douglas Fir I purchased almost two years ago from Home Depot. The 1x board was around 4″ wide, and straight grained. I didn’t measure anything for this project except for the width of the till, as that’s the dimension that dictates the number of saws I can store in the sawtill. In my case with 7 panel saws, 9 backsaws and a little extra for the inevitable future purchases, the width came to around 26″.

sawtill, sliding dovetail

The sides glued up and ready for cleaning up and joinery

I cut the board and laminated the pieces to minimise waste. I knew I wanted to include some curves in the design, but wasn’t too specific about what I wanted yet. With the glue up done and cleaned up, it was time to cut the joinery. The sawtill has two stretchers in the back attached using lap joints, and a stretcher in the front attached via sliding dovetails that also serves as the rest for the saw handles. I cut the joinery in the sides at once, with both sides held in the vise. Cutting both sides at once saves a ton of time measuring and marking. The lap joints can be marked off directly from the stretcher stock. The dovetail tenons were slightly offset, i.e., the tenon was not centred on the stretcher. I marked the tenons off from the sides, taking care to ensure the offset was on the same side of the stretcher on both sides.

Sawtill, sliding dovetail

Gang cutting the joinery for the sides

…Unfortunately I clearly didn’t take enough care with marking the offset, as I ended up with the two tenons cut offset in different directions. After a little while considering my options and cursing my stupidity, it came down to either shortening the stretcher and reducing the saw till capacity, or ‘fixing’ one tenon by attaching a narrow offcut to it. I went with the latter, glueing up a slice of wood and holding it in tightly place with some tape for a couple hours. This seemed to fix the issue, with both dovetails fitting pretty well without needing any paring.

dovetail tenon

Fixing the dovetail tenon

With the joinery done, I marked out the side profile on one side of the sawtill, and lined both sides up in the vise to cut at once. I just eyeballed the profile and drew it in freehand – I’m sure using french curves for this step would make it more pleasing aesthetically. I used a coping saw to cut the profile out as close to my lines as I safely could. I was close to the end when the saw jumped out mid – vigorous stroke, and caught the index finger on my left hand on the push stroke. I knew something was wrong as a steady stream of blood poured out immediately. I couldn’t tell how deep the cut was, as even under running water the cut bled too much to be able to see anything, so I wrapped it tightly with a large bandaid and headed back downstairs to finish rasping the profile out. With the profile completed, I glued up the sawtill.

curves, coping saw

Cutting curves for the side profiles using a coping saw

A few hours later I headed back into the shop to check out how the till was doing, when the cut on my finger literally started spurting blood through the band aid. Fast forward a few hours, and I was leaving the emergency at 3 AM with 5 heavy sutures in my finger. Turns out the cut almost reached the bone, and was a lot worse than I had anticipated. The next day I decided to finish the project with 9 digits – there wasn’t much left to do, just glue squeeze out clean up and attaching the kerfed pieces that the sawblades slot into. This part took a little fiddling, as the sawtill was a bit steep. I cut the kerfs a bit oversize, and did them on the bandsaw.

Woodworking accidents

Handsaws are dangerous too

I decided against staining or finishing the till at all. I liked the look of the Douglas Fir, and the fact that the till would be in an indoor shop meant that a finish really wasn’t necessary. I attached the sawtill to the wall with two screws through the stretchers into the wall studs. Oh, and I added a couple nails on one side to hold my flush cut saws, and a nail on the top stretcher to hold my Knew Concepts fret saw.

The three hour sawtill!

The three hour sawtill!

All together the working time on this project was around 3 hours, not including the time for the glue to dry and the emergency visit to the hospital. I love having my tools out where I can see them, because, well, I love tools and I think they’re beautiful…but also because a tool I can see is a tool I’m more likely to use. That’s enough procrastination for now though, time to get back to that coffee table…

Side profile of the sawtill and my backsaw collection; A number of Veritas, a couple Lie Nielsens, a Bad Axe and a Disston.

Side profile of the sawtill and my backsaw collection; A number of Veritas, a couple Lie Nielsens, a Bad Axe and a Disston.

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100% Wood Wall Hanging Coat Rack

100% Wood Wall Hanging Coat Rack

A few months ago I was asked to make a wall hanging coat rack. The only design direction I was given was a slightly modern look in a dark wood. I figured out a rough design idea in my head and went looking for some appropriate stock, and found some walnut the perfect size in my scrap bin. I had 6 scrap pieces of roughly the same size, and decided to use 3 for the base with the grain running vertically, and use the others for the actual hooks.

Walnut coat rack, wall handing, mid century modern

The walnut scrap pieces I used to make one of the wall hanging coat racks

After jointing the edges and gluing up, I flattened and trued the board using my jack plane. A couple of the pieces had live edges, and were on the outside; when I make these using pieces that don’t have live edges I make sure to place the sap wood on the outside. Nothing annoys me more than a laminated piece with sapwood in the middle, it just seems unnatural (of course, to each their own and all that…). I also planed some chamfers and rasped in some curves followed by a spokeshave for the edges of the backer board.

walnut, mid century modern, coat rack

The cavity for the hooks and spacers marked out, and the backer board shaped out

Okay, so back to the design. I decided to go with a backing board, with 9 hooks on top – 5 of them laminated in place and 4 sandwiched between fixed pieces that can fold in or out as required. I marked out a good equal distance from each end, and tried a couple of different sizes for the hooks height and width till I settled on a size that looked just right. With the space for the hooks marked out, I set about routing out a shallow cavity for the hooks to sit in. Of course, this being me, it was all done using hand tools and so the router in question was a Stanley 71 1/2. I prefer the closed mouth 71 1/2 over the open 71.

walnut, mid century modern, wall hanging coat rack

Routing out the cavity using my Stanley 71 1/2 router

I ripped the hooks and spacer pieces and planed them down to size, and drilled through each of them (except the two end pieces) to house the oak dowel that formed the hinge rod. I cut out the shape of the hooks roughly using a dovetail saw, and refined them using rasps. The top of the hooks needed to be slimmed down a bit to do a better job of holding the coats. The bottom of the hooks need to be curved to allow them to open without interfering with the backer board, while also acting as a stop to prevent them from just flopping down all the way. This was rough estimation followed by trial and error to get the final shape.

mid century modern, wall hanging coat rack, walnut

Cutting out and shaping the hooks and spacer pieces

With the hooks, spacer pieces and backer board for the wall hanging coat rack all ready, it was time for glue up. This is where an accurately cut out cavity really shines. I cut the dowel to length, assembled the hooks and spacer pieces, applied glue to the cavity and set them in place using clamps. I was very careful to set the pieces precisely, as I wanted a friction fit, otherwise the hooks won’t close properly. Obviously, no glue on the hooks themselves, only on the spacer pieces. I left the glue to set and dry overnight.

walnut, mid century modern, wall hanging tool rack

The hooks and spacers in place for a dry fit before glue up and shaping

The next day all I had to do was plane the hooks and spacers flush, and use a block plane to chamfer their outside edges before finishing. I used a couple coats of shellac followed by paste wax. The hooks work just as they should, and close flush to the spacer pieces. To mount the racks I used brass screws countersunk into the backer board – I’ve always loved the look of walnut and brass.

walnut, mid century modern, wall handing tool rack

The finished 100% wood wall hanging tool rack!

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The Artisan Coffee Table Pt. 2 – Ideas and Concepts

The Artisan Coffee Table Pt. 2 – Ideas and Concepts

I took the design I sketched to my wife for her approval. She okayed it but didn’t seem too enthused, so I took my time looking up various other designs. The mid-century modern coffee table designs seemed to fall in one of two camps, either a table with skewed and tapered legs and thin top, or a box shaped carcase on smaller legs. The wife seemed a lot more enthusiastic about the latter, so the overall design theme for the Artisan coffee table was settled.

When designing a piece of furniture, the overall design of the piece needs to be based on it’s setting. In this case, the coffee table would be seen and used mostly against our living room couch, so I set the basic dimensions based on the couch. When sketching my piece I like to sketch the key aspects of the environment to scale to be able to visualise roughly how it’ll look.

Mid-century modern coffee table, couch

Sketching the key furniture that the table will be viewed against – the couch

Most mid-century modern coffee tables I came across on the internet with box-shaped carcases looked rather disproportional to me – they either had legs that were too long, or stretchers that were too long or short, ruining the visual relationship between the top and the base. I decided to go with the golden ratio to establish the dimensions between the top and the base, both for the length and the depth. The other key aspect to this sort of a design is the angle of skew and taper on the legs. I tried out a few different angles before settling on my final design.

Mid century modern, artisan, walnut

Walnut lumber for the Artisan coffee table – and my cat

I left off last post at the lumber purchasing stage – it just so happened that I came across someone selling a pretty large amount of lumber on Kijiji (a Canadian craigslist of sorts), and the bulk of the wood was walnut. I picked out a few pieces based on grain and colour similarities and stickered them to allow the wood to acclimatise to my home. I’ve overlooked this step in the past and kicked myself for it later on. With the wood left to sticker, it gave me some more time to settle the finer details of the design.

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The Artisan Coffee Table Pt. 1 – Ideas and Concepts

The Artisan Coffee Table Pt. 1 – Ideas and Concepts

I always have a running list of honey-do projects that I don’t seem to be able to get ahead of. It’s gotten to the point where my wife no longer asks me if I can build something – the other day she was about to pull the trigger on a dresser from IKEA. Surprisingly, this actually gave me a twinge of sadness…on the one hand I dislike the mass produced, assemble at home furniture, and pride my own ability to build things that are custom and will last for a lifetime; on the other hand, a piece of furniture in hand is better than two pieces of furniture in the bush. Or something like that. Anyways, it spurred me into action, so here we are. The most urgent of this list was a new coffee table – I shall call it the Artisan Coffee Table.

Mid-Century Modern, Coffee Table, Maker, Craft, Designer, Furniture Designer

Mid-Century Modern Coffee Table Design V1

My wife loves all things mid-century modern, and all things walnut, so all I had to go on for the design was that she wanted a mid-century modern coffee table in walnut. I did pick out a couple of beautiful cherry boards that we could go with instead, but we settled on walnut. With that settled I started researching mid-century modern coffee table designs, and sketching my ideas. I’m more of a pen and paper kind of person (also more of a printed book person vs e-books), so I do all my rough and detailed sketches on paper. I settled on a clean and slim design, with tapered and splayed legs, and a long top with beveled edges. When I do my final sketches I like to calculate out all the angles on the final piece, but also the angles at which I’ll need to cut my stock (bless up for 5th grade geometry).

I had to pick up stock before I could proceed any further, so this feels like a good place to break. Till next time!



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1950’s Tube Radio Restoration

1950’s Tube Radio Restoration

This post is about something a little different than my usual fare. It still involves some woodworking techniques and is about a well-made, artisanal item, so I think it’s ok to write about. Last summer as I was about to head out grocery shopping I saw a really cool radio put out with the trash by one of my neighbours. It had rained the last few days, and apparently it was sitting out there for a few days. I asked him if he would let me have it, and he was more than happy to help me carry it into my workshop. It was time for a radio restoration!

Vintage radio restoration

The radio the day I rescued it

My neighbour’s parents bought this radio over 60 years ago when he was a child. He told me how he used to turn it on and wait a few minutes for the tubes to warm up before tuning in to listen. It hadn’t been used since the late 60’s, so it was in storage for the last 50 years, and had clearly been moved around without much care. The wood veneer was coming off and broken in all the corners. The top had some deep chips. The side walls of the radio had deep scratches that looked like it had been gouged out by Edward Scissorhands. It was missing its legs, so I’d have to make those too. And the tubes hadn’t been replaced in 50 years so I would have to look at getting those to work.

Vintage radio restoration

After some cleaning it didn’t look as bad, but it still needs a lot of work

A word of caution – Old radios from this time frame often have a hot chassis. Look up hot chassis radios, learn how to identify them, and test the radio carefully before you start working on a radio yourself. Hot chassis radios can shock and even kill you if you touch the chassis when plugged in. Some of them have metal chassis that are hot when switched on, and something to watch out for even more, some have hot chassis when switched off.

Radio restoration vintage

Filled in and taped up for paint. This is before sanding.

After carefully ensuring the radio was not a hot chassis type model, I cleaned out the internals. This took a while, and I had to be careful not to damage the tubes. I then cleaned the outside of the radio and assessed the damage to the veneer. I figured I could glue down some of the areas of veneer that were coming off…I would have to fill in the rest. Once the glue dried I filled in the chips, gouges, scratches and the areas where the veneer no longer lined up, followed by sanding to get the surface smooth and ready for painting.

Vintage tube radio restoration

The tubes – they look super cool when they turn on

The next step was choosing a colour. I knew I wanted it to be a vintage appliance colour, either a blue or a green. My girlfriend helped me out with this and she picked the perfect colour. I always seem to have difficulty picking paint colours so I was glad for her help. I then taped removed any hardware that would come off easily and taped the rest with painters tape. I applied one coat of primer and three coats of paint. I wanted to keep the Hudson’s logo, and that required some careful painting. If you look very closely it doesn’t look perfect, but from more than 6 inches away it looks just fine, so it would have to do.

Vintage tube radio restoration

Almost done. Just one more coat of paint…

I had to fiddle around with the tubes a bit to get it to work. I didn’t know it before, but it turns out replacement tubes are easy to find online if you know which one you’re looking for. With the tubes sorted, I had to make a cover for the the back – I didn’t want to risk my cat getting electrocuted in there.

Vintage tube radio restoration

Done and in it’s new home!

I was over the moon when I tuned in to a local radio station and found the radio worked perfectly. The tubes create a warm, crackly sound that has amazing charm to it. I’m a big fan of the Fallout series of video games, so I played some of the songs on the soundtrack using a radio transmitter and it was as though they were meant to be played on this radio. Here’s a video…it doesn’t do it justice, but it’ll give you some idea as to why I’m so glad I ‘rescued’ this radio.


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Mid Century Modern Side Table With Bookmatched Top

Mid Century Modern Side Table With Bookmatched Top

In a recent post I did a little how-to on bookmatching veneers. The workpiece I was veneering in that post was a table top for a small mid century modern side table I was building.

Mid century modern side table

Base complete. The angled and tapered legs add a lot to the look.

The angled and tapered legs add a lot to the design. They are also surprisingly efficient when it comes to stock usage, as you can use a single board to cut out two legs if you plan ahead. The ‘shelf’ performs like stretchers would, in stabilising the table.

Bookmatched veneer table top

The bookmatched top after some time with a cabinet scraper

The top is veneered in a ‘quartermatched’ pattern, like regular bookmatching but involving four pieces in a symmetrical pattern. I detailed the bookmatching process in this post. Of course, I also had to veneer the sides and the bottom in cherry.

Mid century modern side table

The angles and the taper really work well with the dimensions of the table

The base was stained first in a darker stain, sanded down and then stained in a cherry stain. I find this approach brings out a more natural and older looking appearance than just going with a single lighter coloured stain.

The top was finished with some tung oil and a few coats of shellac. The tung oil really brought out the beauty of the cherry veneer.

Mid century modern coffee table

And here it is in it’s final location, made to fit beside the couch. The top has a beautiful depth to the grain.



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Gaming Table

Gaming Table

I was asked to build a gaming table top of sorts that could sit on top of a large ottoman. Nothing too fancy, but functional, rustic looking and good for card games and for the occasional food and drink. Oh, and I was given a couple days to make it.

Gaming Table, router dado, beads

Glue up complete and rabbets cut. Time to cut the beads.

I decide to build it out of furniture grade pine to achieve the rustic look and still keep it light enough to be carried easily (it would need to be around 40″ square so it was fairly large). After the glue up I set to work on the sides. I wanted to give it a 0.5″ lip on the top to keep cards or spilled drinks contained, and a longer 3″ lip in the bottom to hold on to the ottoman and not tip over. With the dado cut, I used an ogee bit to give the top of the sides a bead pattern and the bottom of the sides a roundover.

Cupped board, planing

Some quick flattening. You can really see the cup in the glued up board here.

The top (the actual table portion) had a bit of a cup to it, but I wasn’t too concerned, as the assembly would pull it flat. The only thing to keep in mind is to make the dadoes a little deeper than they need to be, to account for wood movement. The sides are glued together with the top ‘floating’ in the middle.

Staining table top, gaming table

After staining. I was instructed to make it rustic looking, and this stain fit the bill.

I also made sure to stain the pieces before assembly…it just makes it easier to get into the corners that way. I used three coats of semi gloss poly to finish it, sanding to 400 in between coats to make sure the cards slide freely, and voila – it was done in two days!

Finishing gaming table

Completed gaming table top!

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Finishing the Workbench – Low Cost Roubo 8

Finishing the Workbench – Low Cost Roubo 8

Finally, after a long and very enjoyable (and sometimes frustrating process), all the mortises and tenons have been chopped, cut, fitted and drawbored, all the dovetails have been cut and assembled, the bench dog holes bored and the vises attached and adjusted. All that’s left now is finishing.


Bench complete, pre-finishing, with a temporary leg vise handle

For finishing I chose to use a mixture of equal parts boiled linseed oil (BLO), turpentine and varnish. BLO alone would work quite well too, but takes a while to dry. Varnish on the other hand is strong and adds some gloss, but would make the bench surface too smooth – ideally the bench top should not be too smooth, to improve work holding capability. Some people choose not to finish their benches at all, but finishing helps with humidity changes and with removing glue spills from the bench surface. For benches with contrasting wood such as mine it also helps bring out the contrast.


After the finish dried

I poured a liberal amount on of the mixture the top and wiped it on, and did the same for the base. 3 coats and I felt the bench had sufficient protection. Keep your windows open and your fans on, as the turpentine smells quite nasty.

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Once the finish dried, I moved some of my frequently used tools to the planing stop, and set about admiring my new bench. Altogether the bench weighs around 350 lb, so it isn’t going anywhere in a hurry. Chopping mortises on the bench is a real pleasure, with almost no vibration at all, and with the bench dog holes, bench dogs, holdfasts, planing stop and vises, the work holding options have so far covered pretty much every situation I have come across.


The bench completed

I hope this build series helped you, whether you chose to follow it exactly or just get some ideas from it. If you have any questions or photos you’d like to share, give me a shout!

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Leg Vise, Dog Holes & Planing Stop – Low Cost Roubo 7

Leg Vise, Dog Holes & Planing Stop – Low Cost Roubo 7

With the top and the base assembled, there wasn’t much left till completion of the bench. First up, lets talk about adding a leg vise. I determined the maximum depth of clamping that I desired for my leg vise – too little and the capacity will be too low, too much and the vise will be wonky and move out of alignment. I did some research and chose a 9″ depth (the leg vise screw would be located 9″ lower than the top of the bench). The leg vise is a very simple yet surprisingly effective design. The screw acts against a a pivot point in the parallel guide to produce a great deal of clamping force at the top. The pivot point is determined by adding a dowel through one of holes in the parallel guide, depending on the thickness of the material being clamped.


The hole for the leg vise screw and the mortise for the parallel guide

With that in mind, I needed an oversize hole for the screw to pass through the front left leg, and a through mortise for the parallel guide. I bored and chopped both of these prior to assembling the base – while you can do it after, it makes it a lot more difficult. The hole is easy, as it doesn’t require fine tolerances. The screw just needs to centre in the hole without touching the leg, or it will bind. The mortise is a bit more fidgety, as it ideally should be no more than 1/16″ larger than the parallel guide in each dimension.

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Gluing up the chop

With the leg mortised and bored, I used it to mark the location on the leg vise chop. I glued up the leg vise chop from 3 oak boards, creating a 30″ long, 8″ wide and 3″ thick chop. With the locations marked, I bored the leg vise screw hole, and a mortise for the parallel guide. My parallel guide was a 15″ long, 3/4″ thick piece of oak. It is important to get the mortise perfect for the parallel guide, as ideally you wouldn’t want to glue it in, in order to keep it replaceable. Before attaching the parallel guide, I shaped the chop a little, using a block plane and handsaws.

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Chop shaped, drilled and drawbored with the parallel guide

I bored the pin holes for the parallel guide, before attaching and drawboring the guide to the leg vise chop.I then placed the guide into the mortise in the leg, with a 1/16 shim at the bottom, and got to work centering the screw in the hole. It takes a bit of fidgeting, but I was able to make sure the screw is not touching the walls at all, and screw in the threaded part. After testing it to make sure the vise was aligned properly, I planed off around 1/16″ from the top of the vise to make sure it was flush to the top of the bench, added some leather to the bench and chop face and I was done!

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Chop aligned and attached!


Next up was the planing stop. The planing stop is designed to sit in the gap between the two halves of the top, just below the surface and act as a tool holder when not required. When it is needed it can be lifted up, shifted an inch to the right and it portrudes about 1/2″ from the top, acting as a planing stop. It is simply two boards with a large dado down each, glued together. I made some relief cuts across the width of each board before chiseling the waste out and gluing the two halves together. A little bit of planing later, it was ready to go in. It is important that it has a tight friction fit in the bench, as you don’t want it to move around on you when in use. It will require the occasional touch up with a plane as it moves at a different rate as the rest of the top.


Planing stop completed – the two dados are what allows the stop to sit below or above the bench surface as required


The last thing (other than finishing) left to do was to bore the bench dog holes. For bench dog holes, less is more – you don’t want to lose precious rigidity and mass from the top of your bench for unnecessary holes. I went with offset holes every 4 – 6 inches in two rows, with one extra hole near a corner for wider boards. Of course, if your end vise has a dog, you want one of the rows to be in line with the dog. It helps if you know the reach of the holdfast you will be using (if at all). I use Gramercy holdfasts, and strongly recommend them. For their quality, performance and price, they are hard to beat. You want the holes to be spaced such that the holdfasts can reach halfway across the distance. A standard diameter for the holes is 3/4″. I used a square to help keep my brace and bit square to the top as I went. A bit with sharp spurs makes a world of difference here. With the holes bored, I rounded over the edges with a file to prevent splintering. I made some homemade bench dogs using 3/4″ maple dowel and leather scraps, and they work remarkably well.

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Boring the bench dog holes

And with that, all that is left for the bench to be complete is finishing! That’ll be the last post in this series.

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Houndstooth Dovetails on the End Caps – Low Cost Roubo 6

Houndstooth Dovetails on the End Caps – Low Cost Roubo 6

With the top almost complete, and attached to the base, I turned my attention to the dovetails. The dovetails are a pretty iconic part of the Roubo bench, and since I probably won’t be building another bench in a while, I decided to go a little flashy with houndstooth dovetails.

With my end-caps dimensioned, marked out and mortised, it was time to mark out the dovetails. You might remember that one of the endcaps was left a little longer than the other, to accept the ‘apron’ at the front of the bench. Marking out the houndstooth dovetails seems daunting at first but with a little care it’s not too difficult.

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Tails marked and cut first

I’m a tails first kind of guy, and while it’s usually just a matter of individual preference, I find for houndstooth dovetails marking out the tails first makes it a lot easier, especially since these are half-blind. I mark the tails normally, with two large tails first. I then measured 2/3rd into the height of the tails (from the end. Then, from the middle of each tail, I marked out the ‘recess’ within the tail at the same angle as the tails. This will split each tail into two tails, with space for 3 pins – one large pin between the two larger tails and a smaller pin within each tail, for that classic houndstooth look.

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Pins marked, sawn, and ready to be bored.

With the tails marked out, I turned to my trusty Veritas rip saw to cut just inside the lines. It’s very important to stay within the lines and to cut as square as possible. I followed up with a coping saw and chisels to clean out the waste. With the tails cut, I lined them up on the end-cap to mark out the pins. With the pins marked, I used a saw to cut close to lines as much as possible. Since these are half blind, I had to come in at an angle and be careful not to cut past the length of the tails. I used a brace and bit (taped for depth) to hog out most of the waste and cleaned them up with chisels, slowly paring down to the lines.

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With the bulk of the waste removed, it was time to carefully pare down to the lines.

With that done, it was time to attach the end cap to top, as outline in the last post, and hammer and glue in the front apron board, and voila! The dovetails were complete, and the bench looked a hell of a lot better! It’s a bit more work than just adding the end cap without any dovetails, or even just adding regular single pin and tail dovetails, but every time I look at the bench it makes me smile, and I’d say that makes it worth the effort.


Dovetails assembled!

Next post will be on adding the leg vise, and drilling the bench dog holes! As always, feel free to email me or leave a comment if you have any questions.


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